 Cosmetic compositions containing an aminosilicone and a conditioner, and uses thereof
专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one aminosilicone and one or more conditioners of a specific structure (including boundaries) having a contact angle with water, preferably between 90 ° and 180 °. The combination imparts improved cosmetic properties (brightness, no agglomeration, volume and gloss) and has the additional effect of long lasting and retaining. The composition is especially used for cleaning and / or conditioning keratin materials such as hair or skin. 公开号:KR20030038526A 申请号:KR1020020069177 申请日:2002-11-08 公开日:2003-05-16 发明作者:고트레조나땅；레스뜰세르쥬；데꼬스떼상드린느；라쯔리빠스깔 申请人:로레알； IPC主号:
专利说明:
Cosmetic compositions containing aminosilicone and conditioners and their use {COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING AN AMINOSILICONE AND A CONDITIONER, AND USES THEREOF} [1] The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions containing at least one particular aminosilicon and at least one conditioner in a cosmetically acceptable medium. [2] Hair that has been sensitized (ie, damaged and / or weakened) to varying degrees often under the action of an atmospheric agent or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as dyeing, bleaching and / or perming It is well known that it is difficult and lacks softness. [3] In order to loosen the hair and give it softness and flexibility, it has already been recommended to use conditioners, in particular cationic polymers or silicones, in compositions for cleaning or care of keratin materials such as hair. However, the cosmetic benefits mentioned above also unfortunately have certain cosmetic effects on dry hair that are considered undesirable, i.e. the curling of the hair style (lack of brightness of the hair), and lack of smoothness (from the hair root to the end of the hair). Non-uniform hair). [4] In addition, the use of aminosilicone for this purpose has various disadvantages. Due to their high affinity for hair, a significant portion of the silicone is deposited on the hair during repeated use, resulting in adverse effects, such as interfiber adhesion, which affects unpleasant bunching, stiffness, and styling of the hair. . This disadvantage is noticeable in the case of fine hair, which lacks vitality and volume. [5] In summary, it can be seen that current cosmetic compositions containing conditioners are not completely satisfactory. [6] Applicants have now discovered that certain combinations of aminosilicones and conditioners can overcome these drawbacks. [7] Thus, after conducting considerable research on this issue, the Applicant has found that a composition containing at least one aminosilicone and at least one conditioner as defined below retains other advantageous cosmetic properties associated with the silicone containing composition, It has been found that the lack of gloss, smoothness and softness of the hair may be limited or eliminated. [8] The combination imparts improved cosmetic properties (brightness, tangling, bulkiness, softness and gloss) and furthermore the effect is sustained and maintained. [9] Applicants have now found that the maintenance of cosmetic properties (especially conditioning effects) is improved with the presence of aminosilicones. [10] Furthermore, the compositions of the present invention, especially used on the skin in the form of bubble baths or shower gels, improve the softness of the skin. [11] The composition according to the invention improves the deposition of the conditioner on keratin materials. [12] Thus, according to the present invention, novel cosmetic compositions are proposed which contain at least one aminosilicone and at least one conditioner as defined below in a cosmetically acceptable medium. [13] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of one or more aminosilicones as defined below in or for the preparation of a cosmetic composition containing a conditioner. [14] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a composition containing one or more aminosilicones and conditioners as defined below for conditioning keratin materials. [15] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a composition containing at least one aminosilicone and at least one conditioner as defined below for conditioning keratin materials. [16] Another aspect of the invention is the use of a composition containing one or more aminosilicones and one or more conditioners as defined below to improve the brightness, softness, gloss and / or tangling of keratin materials and to facilitate styling It is about. [17] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a composition containing at least one aminosilicone and at least one conditioner as defined below to improve the maintenance of the conditioning effect on the shampoo. [18] Another aspect of the present invention relates to the use of one or more aminosilicones as defined below to improve the maintenance of the conditioning effect of a cosmetic composition on shampoos. [19] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a method for improving the maintenance of the conditioning effect of a cosmetic composition on a shampoo, consisting of introducing aminosilicone as defined below in the cosmetic composition. [20] Various aspects of the invention will now be described in detail. All meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for all the gist of the present invention. [21] According to the invention, the term "keratin substance" means hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp, more specifically hair. [22] The aminosilicones according to the invention are selected from those of the formula [23] [24] (In the meal: [25] m and n may have a sum (n + m) in the range of 1 to 1000, in particular 50 to 250, more specifically 100 to 200, n being 0 to 999, especially 49 to 249, more specifically 125 to 175 Can represent the number of m, m is from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more specifically from 1 to 5; [26] R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be the same or different and represent a hydroxyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical and at least one of the radicals R 1 to R 3 represents an alkoxy radical). [27] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. [28] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably in the range of 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1, preferably 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1, more specifically 0.3: 1. [29] The weight average molecular mass of the silicone is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000, more specifically 3,500 to 200,000. [30] [31] (In the meal: [32] p and q may have a sum (p + q) in the range of 1 to 1000, in particular 50 to 350, more specifically 150 to 250, and p is 0 to 999, especially 49 to 349, more specifically 159 to 239 A number that can represent a number from 1 to 1000, in particular 1 to 10, more specifically 1 to 5; [33] R 1 and R 2 are different and represent a hydroxyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical and at least one of the radicals R 1 and R 2 represents an alkoxy radical). [34] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. [35] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably 1: 0.8 to 1: 1.1, preferably 1: 0.9 to 1: 1, more specifically 1: 0.95. [36] The weight average molecular mass of the silicone is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 200,000, more specifically 5,000 to 100,000, even more specifically 10,000 to 50,000. [37] The weight average molecular mass of the aminosilicone is measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature, like polystyrene equivalents. The column used is a styragel μ column. Eluent is THF and flow rate is 1 ml / min. Inject 200 μl of a 0.5 wt% solution of silicon in THF. Detection is performed by refractive index measurement and UV-measurement. [38] Commercially available products corresponding to the silicone of the above formula (1) or (2) may contain one or more other aminosilicon whose structure differs from the formulas (1) and (2) in their composition. [39] Products containing aminosilicon of Formula 1 are Belsil ADM 652 It is marketed by Wacker under the name. [40] The product containing aminosilicone of formula 2 is Fluid WR 1300 It is marketed by Wacker under the name. [41] Where such aminosilicon is used, one particularly advantageous embodiment involves the use of them in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. Oil-in-water emulsions may contain one or more surfactants. [42] The surfactant may be of any nature, but is preferably cationic and / or nonionic. [43] The number average size of the silicon particles in the emulsion is generally from 3 nm to 500 nm. [44] Preferably, especially as aminosilicone of formula (2), microemulsions having an average particle size of 5 nm to 60 nm (including boundaries), more specifically 10 nm to 50 nm (including boundaries) are used. [45] Therefore, Finish CT 96 E from Wacker Or SLM 28020 Microemulsions of the aminosilicones of formula (2) sold under the name may be used according to the invention. [46] Aminosilicone is such that the contact angle of hair and water treated with the composition containing 2% (active substance) of the silicone according to the invention is 90 to 180 ° (including boundaries), preferably 90 to 130 ° (including boundaries). Preferably selected. [47] To measure the contact angle, the aminosilicone is preferably dissolved or dispersed in a solvent for aminosilicone or an aminosilicone emulsion (especially hexamethyldisiloxane or water depending on the hydrophilicity of the silicone). [48] The composition containing the aminosilicone (s) of formula (1) or (2) preferably has a contact angle of the hair treated with the composition of 90 to 180 ° (including boundaries), preferably 90 to 130 ° (including boundaries). [49] Contact angle measurements are based on hair infiltration in distilled water. During the infiltration of hair in distilled water and during its removal, the force exerted by the water on the hair. The force thus measured is directly related to the contact angle θ between the surface of the water and the hair. The hair is hydrophilic when the angle θ is 0 to 90 ° (including the boundary), and is hydrophobic when the angle is 90 ° to 180 ° (including the boundary). [50] This test is performed with natural hair skein, which has been bleached under the same conditions. [51] 1 g of each skein is placed in a 75 mm diameter crystallization dish and then uniformly covered with 5 ml of the test formulation. The skein is then left at room temperature for 15 minutes and then washed with distilled water for 30 seconds. Leave in open atmosphere until drained skein is completely dry. [52] For each evaluation, 10 identically treated hairs were analyzed. Each sample attached to the precision microbalance was infiltrated through its ends in a container filled with distilled water. The DCA balance ("Dynamic Contact Angle Analyser") from Cahn Instruments can measure the force F on the hair. [53] Side by side, the hair circumference P is measured by microscopic observation. [54] With the average wetting power on the 10 hairs and the cross section of the analyzed hair, the contact angle of the hair on the water can be obtained according to the following formula: [55] F = P * Γlv * cosθ [56] (Wherein F is the wetting force expressed in Newtons, P is the circumference of the hair expressed in meters, Γlv is the liquid / vapor interface tension expressed in J / m 2, and θ is the contact angle). [57] 12% phosphorus in water (ie 2% aminosilicone) SLM 28020 from Wacker The product exhibits a contact angle of 93 ° according to the test indicated above. [58] The Belsil ADM 652 product from Wacker, which is 2% phosphorus (ie 2% aminosilicon) in hexamethyldisiloxane, exhibits a contact angle of 111 ° according to the test indicated above. [59] The aminosilicone (s) of formula 1 or 2 are preferably used in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the amount ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more specifically from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [60] Within the scope of this patent application, the term "conditioner" means any agent that acts to improve the cosmetic properties of keratin materials such as hair, especially softness, smoothness, tangling, touch and static. [61] The conditioner may be water soluble or insoluble. [62] Conditioners are synthetic oils, such as polyolefins, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fluoro oils or perfluoro oils, natural or synthetic waxes, compounds of ceramide type, carboxylic acids, commonly used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, usually Esters, silicones other than Formula 1 or 2, anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates and cationic surfactants, and mixtures of these various compounds . [63] In the present invention, the insoluble conditioner may be a solid, liquid or pasty at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, in particular in the form of an oil, wax, resin or rubber. [64] The insoluble conditioner is particularly dispersed in the composition in the form of particles having a number average size (measured by granulometry) of generally 2 nm to 100 microns, preferably 30 nm to 20 microns. [65] Water-insoluble conditioners are insoluble in water at a concentration of at least 0.1% by weight, in 25 ° C. water, ie they do not form a macroscopically isotropic transparent solution under these conditions. [66] Synthetic oils are in particular polyolefins, in particular poly-α-olefins, more particularly: [67] Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene type, preferably hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene. [68] Isobutylene oligomers having a molecular weight of less than 1000 and mixtures thereof with polyisobutylenes having a molecular weight of at least 1000, preferably 1000 to 15,000, are preferably used. [69] Examples of poly-α-olefins that can be used within the scope of the invention, more particularly Presperse Inc. Commercial name Permethyl Products of 99 A, 101 A, 102 A, 104 A (n = 16) and 106 A (n = 38), or alternatively are commercially available trade names Arlamol Products of HD (n = 3) (where n means degree of polymerization), [70] Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydeken forms. [71] The above products are manufactured by Ethyl Corp. Commercially available brand name Ethylflo Trade names Arlamol PAO. [72] Animal or vegetable oils may be sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, fish oil, glyceryl tricaprocaprylate or formula R 9 COOR 10 (wherein R 9 represents a higher fatty acid residue having 7 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 10 represents a straight or branched hydrocarbon-based chain having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular alkyl or alkenyl), for example a vegetable or animal oil, for example It is preferably selected from the group consisting of purcelin oil or liquid jojoba wax. [73] In addition, natural or synthetic essential oils, such as eucalyptus oil, hybrid lavender oil, lavender oil, vetiver oil, litsi coubeba oil, lemon oil, sandalwood oil, rosemary oil, chamomile oil, seyborg oil, Nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, hyssop oil, caraway oil, orange oil, geraniol oil, cade oil and bergamot oil may also be used. [74] Waxes are natural (animal or vegetable) or synthetic materials that are solid at room temperature (20-25 ° C.). It is water insoluble, oil soluble and can form a water repellent film. [75] For the definition of waxes, see, eg, P.D. Dorgan, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1983. 12, pp. 30-33]. [76] The wax (es) are in particular carnauba wax, candelilla wax, alfalfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or anhydrous waxes of flowers such as Bertin ( Essential waxes of black currant flowers commercially available from France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina); Other waxes and waxy starting materials that can be used in the present invention are in particular marine waxes such as the product of Reference M82 commercially available from Sophim, and general polyethylene waxes or polyolefins. [77] In the present invention, the ceramide type compounds are in particular natural or synthetic ceramides and / or glycoseramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides. [78] Compounds of the ceramide type are described, for example, in patent applications DE 4 424 530, DE 4 424 533, DE 4 402 929, DE 4 420 736, WO 95/23807, WO 94/07844, EP-A-0 646 572, WO 95/16665, FR-2 673 179, EP-A-0 227 994, WO 94/07844, WO 94/24097 and WO 94/10131, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. [79] In the present invention, particularly preferred ceramide type compounds are, for example: [80] 2-N-linoleylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, [81] 2-N-oleylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, [82] 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, [83] 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, [84] 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, [85] 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane-1,3-diol, [86] 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, [87] 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, [88] Bis (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide, [89] N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) cetylamide, [90] N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, [91] Or mixtures of these compounds. [92] Fluoro oils are, for example, perfluoropolyethers described in patent application EP-A-486,135, and in particular fluorohydrocarbon compounds described in patent application WO 93/11103. The contents of both patent applications are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. [93] The term " fluorohydrocarbon compound " means a compound in which the chemical structure includes a carbon skeleton in which a specific hydrogen atom is replaced with a fluorine atom. [94] The fluoro oils may also be fluoroamines such as fluoroamines such as perfluorotributylamine, fluorohydrocarbons such as perfluorodecahydronaphthalene, fluoro esters and fluoro ethers. [95] Perfluoropolyethers are products marketed, for example, under the trade name Fomblin under the company Montefluos and also under the trade name Krytox under the Du Pont company. [96] Among the fluorohydrocarbon compounds, there may also be mentioned fluorine-containing fatty acid esters such as those sold under the tradename Nofable FO of Nippon Oil. [97] Fatty alcohols may be selected from linear or branched C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohols, which may optionally be oxyalkylenated with 1 to 15 moles of alkylene oxide, or polyglycerolized with 1 to 6 moles of glycerol. have. The alkylene oxide is preferably ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. [98] Carboxylic acid esters are in particular mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acid esters. [99] Monocarboxylic acid esters, particularly linear or branched, saturated of unsaturated C 1 -C 26 aliphatic alcohol, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 26 fatty acid is a mono ester, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester Is more than 10. [100] In monoesters, dihydroabiethyl behenate; Octyldodecyl behenate; Isocetyl behenate; Cetyl lactate; C 12-15 alkyl lactate; Isostearyl lactate; Lauryl lactate; Linoleyl lactate; Oleyl lactate; (Iso) stearyl octanoate; Isocetyl octanoate; Octyl octanoate; Cetyl octanoate; Decyl oleate; Isocetyl isostearate; Isocetyl laurate; Isocetyl stearate; Isodecyl octanoate; Isodecyl oleate; Isononyl isononanoate; Isostearyl palmitate; Methylacetyl ricinoleate; Myristyl stearate; Octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononate, octyl palmitate; Octyl pelargonate; Octyl stearate; Octyldodecyl erucate; Oleic erucate; Ethyl and isopropyl palmitate; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; Mention may be made of dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate. [101] Furthermore, C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic esters of C 1 -C 22 alcohols, and mono-, di- or tri of C 2 -C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols Carboxylic acid esters can be used. [102] In particular, diethyl sebacate; Diisopropyl sebacate; Diisopropyl adipate; Di-n-propyl adipate; Dioctyl adipate; Diisostearyl adipate; Dioctyl maleate; Glyceryl undecylenate; Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; Pentaerythritol monolycinoleate; Pentaerythryl tetraisononanoate; Pentaerythryl tetrafellargonate; Pentaerythryl tetraisostearate; Pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate; Propylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate; Tridecyl erucate; Triisopropyl citrate; Triisostearyl citrate; Glyceryl trilactate; Glyceryl trioctanoate; Trioctyldodecyl citrate; Mention may be made of trioleyl citrate. [103] Among the esters mentioned above, ethyl and isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate Butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; Preference is given to using dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate and cetyl octanoate. [104] Silicones other than Formula 1 or 2, which may be used in the present invention, are in particular polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the composition and may be used in the form of oils, waxes, resins or rubbers. [105] The organopolysiloxanes are defined in great detail in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile. [106] If they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly from those having boiling points of 60 ° C. to 260 ° C., even more particularly: [107] (Iii) from cyclic silicon containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the trade name "Volatile Silicone 7207" by Union Carbide or "Silbione 70045 V 2" by Rhodia Chimie, trade name "Volatile Silicone 7158" by Union Carbide, and trade name "Rhodia Chimie" Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold as Silbione 70045 V 5 ", and mixtures thereof. [108] Mention may be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the formula: such as "Volatile Silicone FZ 3109" sold by Union Carbide: [109] [110] Furthermore, mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and a mixture of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'- A mixture of bis (2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane; [111] (Ii) mention may be made of linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of up to 5 × 10 −6 m 2 / s. An example is, in particular, decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the trade name " SH 200 " In addition, silicones falling within this category are described in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cometics". [112] Nonvolatile silicones, more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone rubbers and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used. [113] These silicones are more particularly selected from polyalkylsiloxanes and, among these, contain mainly trimethylsilyl end groups and from 5 x 10 -6 m 2 / s to 2.5 m 2 / s, preferably 1 x 10 at 25 ° C. Mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity of -5 to 1 m 2 / s. [114] The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C, for example. [115] Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercially available products: [116] -Silbione from the 47 and 70 047 series, marketed by Rhodia Chimie Oil or Mirasil Oils such as oil 70 047 V 500 000; [117] The oil of the Mirasil series sold by Rhodia Chimie; [118] 200 series of oils from Dow Corning, such as more particularly DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 cSt (mm 2 / s); [119] -Viscasil of General Electric Oils, and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric. [120] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA name dimethiconol) such as 48 series oils from Rhodia Chimie. [121] Trademark “Abil” of Goldschmidt, which is a poly (C 1 -C 20 ) alkylsiloxane in the category of the above polyalkylsiloxanes Mention may be made of products marketed as Wax 9800 and 9801 ". [122] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes can in particular be selected from linear and / or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity of 1 × 10 −5 to 5 × 10 −2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. . [123] Among the polyalkylarylsiloxanes, for example, products sold under the following trade names may be mentioned: [124] Silbione oil of the 70 641 series from Rhodia Chimie; [125] Rhodorsil oils of the 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia Chimie; [126] Oils from Dow Corning Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid; [127] Silicones of the PK series from Bayer, for example the product PK20; [128] Silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, for example the products PN1000 and PH1000; [129] Specific oils of the SF series from General Electric, for example SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. [130] In the present invention, silicone rubbers which can be used are, in particular, polydiorganosiloxanes having a high number average molecular mass of 200,000 to 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. The solvent may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oil, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oil, isoparaffin, polyisobutylene, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof. . [131] More particularly the following products may be mentioned: [132] Polydimethylsiloxanes, [133] Polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane rubber, [134] Polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane, [135] Polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, [136] Polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane. [137] In the present invention, more particularly products which can be used are mixtures as follows: [138] Mixtures formed from hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxanes (CTFA-named dimethiconol) and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (CTFA-named cyclomethicone), such as products from Dow Corning Q2 1401. [139] Mixtures formed from polydimethylsiloxane rubber and cyclic silicones, such as SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from General Electric, which has a number average molecular weight of 500,000 dissolved in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. SF 30 rubber corresponding to ticon); [140] A mixture of two PDMS of different viscosity, more particularly PDMS rubber and PDMS oil, such as product SF 1236 from General Electric (product SF 1236 is a SE 30 rubber defined above with a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and 5 × 10 A mixture with SF 96 oil with a viscosity of -6 m 2 / s, preferably containing 15% SE 30 rubber and 85% SE 96 oil). [141] In the present invention, organopolysiloxane resins that can be used are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: [142] R 2 SiO 2/2 , R 3 SiO 1/2 , RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 , wherein R is a hydrocarbon-based group or a phenyl group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Of these products, particularly preferred are those in which R means C 1 -C 4 lower alkyl radicals, more particularly methyl or phenyl radicals. [143] Among the above resins, mention may be made of those sold under the trade names " Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 ", or the product sold under the trade name " Dow Corning 593 " of General Electric, a silicone of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. [144] In particular, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold under the trade names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. [145] In the present invention, organomodified silicones that can be used are silicones, as defined above, which contain at least one organic functional group attached through a hydrocarbon-based radical in their structure. [146] Among the organic modified silicones other than Formula 1 or 2, polyorganosiloxanes may be mentioned, including: [147] Polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups, optionally containing C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyol sold under the trade name DC 1248 by Dow Corning and under the trade name Q2 5200 by Dow Corning (C 12 ) Products known as alkylmethicone copolyols; [148] Substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as those sold under the trade names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee, or under the trade names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amine group is in particular a C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl group; [149] Thiol groups such as the products sold under the trade names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" by the company Genesee; [150] Alkoxylating groups such as those sold under the trade names "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and by the trade names Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt; [151] Polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxylated groups such as the hydroxyalkyl functional groups described in French patent application FR-A-85 / 16334; [152] Acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732; [153] Carboxyl anionic groups, such as those described in Chisso Corporation's patent EP 186 507, or alkylcarboxylic anionic groups, such as those present in Shin-Etsu's product X-22-3701E; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfates such as the products sold under the trade names "Abil S201" and "Abil S255" by the Goldschmidt company; [154] Hydroxyacylamino groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. For example, the product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning may be mentioned. [155] In the present invention, also, a silicone comprising a polysiloxane moiety, and a part composed of non-silicone organic chains can be used, one of which constitutes the main chain of the polymer, and the other is grafted to the main chain. . Such polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-412 704, EP-A-412 707, EP-A-640 105, WO 95/00578, EP-A-582 152 and WO 93/23009 and US patents 4 693 935, 4 728 571 and 4 972 037. The polymer is preferably anionic or nonionic. [156] The polymers are, for example, copolymers which can be obtained by radical polymerization, starting with a monomer mixture consisting of: [157] a) 50 to 90 weight percent tert-butyl acrylate; [158] b) 0-40 weight percent acrylic acid; [159] c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of the formula: [160] [161] In which v is a number ranging from 5 to 700; [162] The weight percentage is a calculated percentage relative to the total weight of the monomers. [163] Another example of a grafted silicone polymer is a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) grafted with a mixed polymer unit of a poly (meth) acrylic acid type and a polyalkyl (meth) acrylate type, in particular via a linking chain unit of the thiopropylene type. And polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) grafted polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth) acrylate type through the linking chain units of the thiopropylene type. [164] In the present invention, further, all of the above silicones can be used in the form of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions. [165] In the present invention, particularly preferred silicones are as follows: [166] Polyalkylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups, for example oils having a viscosity of 0.2 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C., for example oils of the DC200 series from Dow Corning, in particular Rhodia Chimie Silbione 70047 and 47 series, and more particularly oils having a viscosity of 60,000 cSt, polyalkylsiloxanes or polyalkylarylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000, for example , Dimethiconols such as nonvolatile silicones selected from the group of Oil Silbione 70641 V 200 sold by Rhodia Chimie; [167] Polyorganosiloxane resins sold under the trade name Dow Corning 593; [168] Polysiloxanes containing amine groups, such as amodimethicone other than those of the formula (1), or trimethylsilylamodimethicone. [169] The conditioners mentioned below are generally water soluble and, in particular, anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates and cationic surfactants, and also such various compounds Is a mixture of. [170] Generally used anionic polymers contain a group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid, and preferably have a weight average molecular weight of approximately 500 to 5,000,000, as measured, for example, by gel permeation chromatography. to be. [171] The anionic polymer may be selected from: [172] 1) A polymer containing carboxylic acid units derived from unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acids, such as corresponding to formula (3): [173] [174] [Wherein n is an integer of 0 to 10, [175] A 1 is a methylene group linked to a carbon atom or an adjacent methylene group of an unsaturated group via a hetero atom such as an oxygen or sulfur atom when n is greater than 1, [176] R 1 means a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, [177] R 2 means a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, [178] R 3 means hydrogen atom, lower alkyl group or —CH 2 —COOH, phenyl or benzyl group. [179] In the above formula, lower alkyl radicals preferably mean groups of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular methyl and ethyl. [180] Preferred anionic film-forming polymers containing carboxyl groups according to the invention are as follows: [181] A) Acrylic or methacrylic acid homo- or copolymers, or salts thereof, in particular products sold under the trade name Versicol E or K from Ciba and Ultrahold under BASF. A copolymer of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the trade name Reten 421, 423 or 425 from Hercules, which is the sodium salt of polyhydroxycarboxylic acid. [182] B) Copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with monoethylenic monomers such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters which can be grafted to and crosslinked to polyalkylene glycols such as polyethylene glycol. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patent 1,222,944 and German patent application 2,330,956, in which copolymers of this type which optionally contain N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide units in their chains, in particular Luxembourg patent application 75370 And 75371 or are marketed under the trade name Quadramer from American Cyanamid. Copolymers of acrylic acid and C 1 -C 4 alkyl methacrylate and trimers of methacrylates of C 1 -C 20 alkyl such as vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and lauryl, such as Acrylidone LM from ISP Commercially available products may be mentioned, such as methacrylic acid / ethylacrylate / tert-butyl acrylate trimer, such as the product sold under the trade name Luvimer 100 P from BASF. [183] C) allyl esters or metallyl esters of crotonic acids, such as those containing vinyl acetate or propionate units in the chain, and optionally other monomers, such as linear or branched saturated carboxylic acids having long hydrocarbon chains of at least 5 carbon atoms. , Vinyl ethers or vinyl esters (the polymer may be optionally grafted or crosslinked), or alternatively, copolymers derived from vinyl, allyl or metallyl esters of α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acids. Among others, such polymers are described in French patents 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. The goods in this category are National Starch's Resin 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10. [184] D) Copolymers derived from C 4 -C 8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides selected from: [185] A copolymer containing (iii) at least one maleic acid, fumaric acid or itaconic acid or anhydride and (ii) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and esters thereof Anhydride functional groups of the copolymer are optionally monoesterified or monoamideized. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 113, and GB Patent 839 805, in particular those sold under the trade names Gantrez AN or ES by the ISP company. [186] (Iii) at least one maleic acid, citraconic acid or itaconic anhydride, and (ii) at least one acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic ester or methacrylic ester, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or vinyl pyrroly As a copolymer containing at least one monomer selected from allyl esters or metallyl esters optionally containing a don group in the chain, the anhydride functional groups of the copolymer are optionally monoesterified or monoamideized. [187] Such polymers are described, for example, in French patent applications 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 by the applicant. [188] E) Polyacrylamides containing carboxylate groups. [189] 2) Polymers containing sulfonic acid groups are polymers containing vinylsulfone, styrenesulfone, naphthalenesulfone or acrylamidoalkylsulfone units. [190] The polymer may in particular be selected from: [191] Polyvinyl sulfonic acid salts having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 1000 to 100,000, also copolymers with unsaturated comonomers such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and esters thereof, as well as acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone ; [192] Polystyrenesulfonic acid salts, sodium salts, having a weight average molecular weight of about 500,000 to about 100,000, which are sold separately under the trade names Flexan 500 and Flexan 130 of National Starch. Such compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719; [193] Polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128 631, more particularly polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the trade name Cosmedia Polymer HSP 1180 by Cognis. [194] In the present invention, the anionic film-forming polymer is an acrylic acid copolymer, for example, a copolymer derived from acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide trimer and crotonic acid sold under the trade name Ultrahold Strong by BASF. For example, crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate trimer and vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid trimer sold under the tradename Resin 28-29-30 by National Starch, maleic acid, fumaric acid Or polymers derived from itaconic acid, vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and anhydrides with acrylic acid and esters thereof such as methyl vinyl ether / monoesterification sold under the trade name Gantrez ES 425 by ISP. Maleic anhydride copolymer, commercially available under the trade name Eudragit L from Rohm Pharma. Copolymers of tacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the trade name Luvimer MAEX or MAE under BASF, and vinyl acetate / crotonic acid under the trade name Luviset CA 66 under BASF Preference is given to copolymers and polyethylene glycols commercially available under the trade name Aristoflex A from BASF and grafted vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers. [195] Most particularly preferred anionic film-forming polymers are methyl vinyl ether / monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the trade name Gantrez ES 425 by ISP, acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate sold under the trade name Ultrahold Strong by BASF. N-tert-butylacrylamide trimer, copolymer of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate sold under the trade name Eudragit L by Rohm Pharma, and crotonic acid sold under the trade name Resin 28-29-30 by National Starch. Vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate trimer and vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid trimer, copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the trade name Luvimer MAEX or MAE from BASF, and Acrylidone from ISP Vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid / lauryl methacryl sold under the trade name LM Sites are selected from the terpolymer. [196] Amphoteric polymers that can be used according to the invention can be selected from polymers containing units K and M randomly distributed in the polymer chain, where K represents a unit derived from a monomer containing at least one basic nitrogen atom. , M may represent a unit derived from an acidic monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid group or sulfonic acid group, or alternatively K and M may represent a group derived from a zwitterionic carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine monomer; [197] K and M may also represent cationic polymer chains containing primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, wherein at least one amine group has a carboxylic acid group or a sulfonic acid group bonded by a hydrocarbon radical, or Alternatively K and M form part of a polymer chain containing α, β-dicarboxyethylene units, where one carboxylic acid group is reacted with a polyamine containing one or more primary or secondary amine groups. [198] More particularly preferred ampholytic polymers corresponding to the above definitions are selected from the following polymers: [199] (1) monomers derived from vinyl compounds having carboxylic acid groups, such as, more particularly, basic monomers derived from substituted vinyl compounds containing at least one basic atom with acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid or α-chloroacrylic acid, For example more particularly polymers produced from copolymerization with dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates and acrylates, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and -acrylamides. Such compounds are disclosed in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. Mention may be made of sodium acrylate / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the trade name Polyquart KE 3033 by the company Cognis. [200] The vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. Copolymers of acrylic acid and the latter monomers are sold by Nalco under the trade names Merquat 280 and Merquat 295 and Merquat Plus 3330. [201] (2) polymers containing units derived from: [202] a) at least one monomer selected from acrylamide and methacrylamide substituted on nitrogen with an alkyl radical, [203] b) at least one acidic comonomer containing at least one reactive carboxyl group; And, [204] c) quaternization products of one or more basic comonomers, such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate and dimethyl or diethyl sulfate . [205] More particularly preferred N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides according to the invention are groups having 2 to 12 carbon atoms of their alkyl radicals, more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert- Octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide or N-dodecylacrylamide, and the corresponding methacrylamide. [206] Acidic comonomers are more particularly selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid, and alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic acid or fumaric acid or anhydride. [207] Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate. [208] In particular, copolymers having the CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name octylacrylamide / acrylate / butylaminoethyl methacrylate are used, such as those sold under the trademark Amphomer or Lovocryl 47 under the national starch. [209] (3) crosslinked and partially or totally alkylated polyamino amides derived from polyamino amides of the formula: [210] [211] [Wherein R 4 is a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic mono- or dicarboxylic acid containing an ethylenic double bond, a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and a divalent radical derived from an ester of these acids, Or a radical derived from the addition of either of these acids to a bis (primary) or bis (secondary) amine, Z represents a bis (primary), mono- or bis (secondary) polyalkylene polyamine radical, preferably Represents: [212] a) the following radicals, in a ratio of 60 to 100 mol%, which radicals are derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetraamine or dipropylenetriamine: [213] [214] [Where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or alternatively x = 3 and p = 2]; [215] b) the radical 5, or piperazine, wherein x = 2 and p = 1 derived from ethylenediamine in a ratio of 0 to 40 mol% Radicals derived from; [216] c) —NH— (CH 2 ) 6 —NH— radicals derived from hexamethylenediamine, in a ratio of 0 to 20 mol%, (such polyaminoamines are epihalohydrin, diepoxide, dianhydride and bis- A bifunctional crosslinking agent selected from an unsaturated derivative is crosslinked by adding 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyamino amide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or alkane sultone or salts thereof). [217] The saturated carboxylic acid preferably contains an acid having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, or terephthalic acid, and an ethylene double bond. Containing acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or itaconic acid. [218] The alkane sultone used for alkylation is preferably propane sultone or butane sultone, and the salt of the alkylating agent is preferably sodium salt or potassium salt. [219] (4) a polymer containing a zwitterionic unit of formula (6): [220] [221] [Wherein R 5 represents a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer of 1 to 3, and R 6 and R 7 represent a hydrogen atom or Methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R 8 and R 9 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in which the sum of the carbon number of R 8 and R 9 does not exceed 10; [222] Polymers containing these units are also non-zwitterionic monomers, such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylate or methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide, or vinyl acetate. May contain monomers derived from. [223] Mention may be made, for example, of methyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonio methyl ethyl methacrylate copolymers such as those sold under the tradename Diaformer Z301 by Sandoz. [224] (5) polymers derived from chitosan containing monomer units corresponding to the following formulas 7, 8 and 9 and salts formed with these compounds and bases or acids: [225] [226] [227] [228] It is understood that Unit 7 is present in a ratio of 0 to 30%, Unit 8 is 5 to 50%, and Unit 9 is 30 to 90%, and R 10 in the unit of Formula 9 represents a radical of the formula: [229] [230] [In the meal, [231] When q = 0, R 11 , R 12 and R 13 may be the same or different and are optionally interrupted by hydrogen atoms, methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residues, one or more nitrogen atoms and / or one or more Monoalkylamine residues or dialkylamine residues which may be optionally substituted with amines, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic acid groups, or alkylthio residues in which the alkyl group has an amino residue, in which case R 11 , R 12 and At least one of the R 13 radicals is a hydrogen atom, or [232] when q = 1, R 11 , R 12 and R 13 each represent a hydrogen atom. [233] (6) polymers derived from N-carboxyalkylation of chitosans, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, sold under the trade name "Evalsan" by Jan Dekker. [234] (7) a polymer corresponding to Formula 10, for example disclosed in French Patent No. 1,400,366: [235] [236] [Wherein, R 14 represents a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 O, CH 3 CH 2 O or a phenyl radical, [237] R 15 represents hydrogen or lower alkyl radicals such as methyl or ethyl, [238] R 16 represents hydrogen or lower alkyl radicals such as methyl or ethyl, [239] R 17 is a lower alkyl radical, such as methyl or ethyl, or of the formula -R 18 -N (R 16 ) 2 , wherein R 18 is -CH 2 -CH 2- , -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -or Represents a -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 )-group and R 16 represents the radical corresponding to the above definition, as well as the higher homologues of the radicals having 6 or less carbon atoms, [240] r has a molecular weight of 500 to 6,000,000, preferably 1000 to 1,000,000. [241] (8) -D-X-D-X- type amphoteric polymer selected from: [242] a) a polymer obtained by reacting chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate with a compound containing at least one unit of formula [243] -D-X-D-X-D- [244] [Wherein D is a radical X represents the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be the same or different, is unsubstituted or substituted with a hydroxyl group, and in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or Heterocyclic, which may contain a heterocycle and is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain; The oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms are ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine group, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester And / or in the form of a urethane group; [245] b) a polymer of formula 12: [246] -D-X-D-X- [247] [Wherein D is a radical X represents the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E has the above meaning, E 'is a divalent radical which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals and contains one or more nitrogen atoms and is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having 7 or less carbon atoms in the main chain, The nitrogen atom is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and essentially contains one or more carboxyl functional groups or one or more hydroxyl functional groups and is substituted by an alkyl chain betained by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. [248] (9) partially modified by semiamidation with N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamines such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or semiesterification with N, N-dialkanolamines (C 1 -C 5 ) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers. Such copolymers may also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam. [249] Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those of group (1). [250] Nonionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are for example selected from the following: [251] Vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers; [252] Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; [253] Polyalkyloxazolines, such as polyethyloxazoline, sold under the names Peox 50000, Peox 200000 and Peox 500000 by the company Dow Chemical; [254] Vinyl acetate homopolymers, such as those sold under the trade name Appretan EM by the company Hoechst or under the trade name Rhodopas A 012 by the company Rhodia Chimie; [255] Copolymers of vinyl acetate with acrylic esters, such as the product sold under the name Rhodopas AD 310 by the company Rhodia Chimie; [256] Copolymers of ethylene with vinyl acetate, such as the product sold under the name Appretan TV by the company Hoechst; [257] Copolymers of vinyl acetate with maleic esters, for example dibutyl maleate, such as the product sold under the name Appretan MB Extra by the company Hoechst; [258] Copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride; [259] Alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers, such as the product sold under the name Micropearl RQ 750 by the company Matsumoto or under the name Luhydran A 848 S by the company BASF; [260] Products sold under the trade names Primal AC-261 K and Eudragit NE 30 D by Rhom & Haas, products sold under the trade names Acronal 601, Luhydran LR 8833 or 8845 by BASF, and trade names Appretan N 9213 or N 9212 by Hoechst. Acrylic ester copolymers such as commercially available products such as copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates; [261] Copolymers of acrylonitrile and nonionic monomers selected from, for example, butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; Mention may be made of products sold under the trade name Nipol LX 531 B by Nippon Zeon or under the trade name CJ 0601 B by Rhom &Haas; [262] Polyurethanes, such as those sold under the trade names Acrysol RM 1020 or Acrysol RM 2020 by the company Rhom & Haas, and products sold under the trade names Uraflex XP 401 UZ and Uraflex XP 402 UZ by the company DSM Resins; [263] Copolymers of urethanes with alkyl acrylates such as 8538-33 from the company National Starch; [264] Polyamides such as products sold under the trade name Estapor LO 11 by the company Rhodia Chimie; [265] Unmodified or chemically modified nonionic guar rubbers. [266] Unmodified nonionic guar rubbers include, for example, those sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and those under the name Jaguar C by the Meyhall company. [267] Modified nonionic guar rubbers which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups. For example, mention may be made of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. [268] Such guar rubbers are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxide, with guar rubber to obtain guar rubbers modified with hydroxypropyl groups. [269] Such nonionic guar rubbers optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are commercially available, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 at Meyhall, or Galactasol 4H4FD2 at Aqualon. . [270] The alkyl radical of the nonionic polymer has 1 to 6 carbon atoms unless otherwise specified. [271] In addition, functionalized or non-functionalized polyurethanes can be used as the polymer. [272] Polyurethanes of particular interest to the present invention include the patents EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, FR 2 743 297 and EP 0 648 485 (owner is the owner), and also WO 94/03510 or patent EP 0 by BASF. 656 021 and EP 0 619 111 by National Starch. [273] Conditioners of the cationic polymer type that can be used according to the invention are those already known per se in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair treated with the cleaning composition, in particular patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and French patent application FR -A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863. [274] More generally, for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” refers to any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized with cationic groups. [275] Preferred cationic polymers are selected from those comprising units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which form part of the polymer backbone or are included in side chain substituents directly attached to the chain. . [276] Cationic polymers used generally have a number average molar mass of approximately 500 to 5 × 10 6 , preferably approximately 10 3 to 3 × 10 6 . [277] Among the cationic polymers which may be mentioned, polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and poly quaternary ammonium types are particularly preferred. These are known products. [278] Polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and poly quaternary ammonium types which can be used and particularly mentioned according to the invention include those described in French patent 2 505 348 or 2 542 997. Among the above polymers, mention may be made of: [279] (1) a homopolymer or copolymer comprising one or more units of the formula: derived from acrylic or methacryl esters or amides: [280] [281] [282] [283] [284] (In the meal: [285] R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; [286] R 3 may be the same or different and represents a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical; [287] A may be the same or different and represents a straight or branched chain alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; [288] R 4 , R 5 and R 6 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; [289] X represents an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion, or a halide such as chloride or bromide). [290] Copolymers of group (1) are also acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted with nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids thereof, or One or more units derived from esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and comonomers which may be selected from the group of vinyl esters. [291] Thus, among the copolymers of the above (1) group, the following may be mentioned: [292] Copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules, [293] Copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example described in patent application EP-A-080 976, sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba, [294] Copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, [295] Quaternized or unquaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers such as "Gafquat 734 "or" Gafquat Products marketed under the name "Gafquat" by the ISP company, or else known as "Copolymers 845, 958 and 937." The polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573. , [296] Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer, such as Gaffix from ISP A product sold under the name VC 713, [297] -Styleze especially from ISP Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymer, marketed under the name CC 10, and [298] Quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer such as "Gafquat" from ISP Commercially available under the name HS 100 ". [299] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and cationic galactomannan rubber. Among the cationic polysaccharides which may be mentioned, more particularly cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water soluble quaternary ammonium monomers and cationic galactomannan rubbers are particularly preferred. [300] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1 492 597, in particular under the name "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) from Amerchol Commercially available polymers. The polymer is also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammonium reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups. [301] Cellulosic derivatives grafted with cationic cellulose copolymers or water soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, for example hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example in particular methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamide Hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-cellulose grafted with dopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salts. [302] Commercially available products falling within the above definitions are more specifically described by National Starch. L200 "and" Celquat There is a product available under the name H 100 ". [303] Cationic galactomannan rubbers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 5 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar rubbers comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups. For example, guar rubbers modified with salts of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (eg chloride) are used. [304] This product is especially manufactured by Meguy Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar Sold under the trade name C162. [305] (3) divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals comprising straight or branched chains optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and piperazinyl units Polymers comprised, and oxidation and / or quaternization products of such polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361; [306] (4) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; The polyamino amide is epihalohydrin, diepoxide, dihydric anhydride, unsaturated dihydric anhydride, bis-unsaturated derivative, bis-halohydrin, bis-azetidinium, bis-haloacyldiamine, bis-alkyl Halides, or else bifunctional compounds reactive with bis-halohydrin, bis-azetidinium, bis-haloacyldiamine, bis-alkyl halides, epihalohydrin, diepoxides or bis-unsaturated derivatives Can be crosslinked with oligomers produced by the reaction; Crosslinkers are used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; The polyamino amides can be alkylated or quaternized if they contain one or more tertiary amine functionalities. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508; [307] (5) A polyamino amide derivative produced by condensing a polyalkylene polyamine with a polycarboxylic acid and then alkylating with a bifunctional agent. For example, mention may be made of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers having an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably representing methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 583 363. [308] Among the derivatives, more specifically "Cartaretine" from Sandoz Mention may be made of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymer, marketed under the name F, F4 or F8 ″. [309] (6) by reaction of a dialkyl acid selected from saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and diglycolic acid having 3 to 8 carbon atoms with a polyalkylene polyamine comprising at least one secondary amine group and two primary amine groups Polymer obtained. The molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid is from 0.8: 1 to 1.4: 1; The polyamino amides resulting from them react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of 0.5: 1 to 1.8: 1 of the secondary amine groups of epichlorohydrin to polyamino amide. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 3 227 615 and 2 961 347. [310] Polymers of this type are in particular Hercules Inc. Trade name from the company "Hercosett 57 "or, for the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer," PD 170 "or" Delsette "from Hercules. Commercially available under the name 101 ". [311] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising units corresponding to the following formula (17) or (18) as the main component of the chain: [312] [313] [314] (Wherein k and t are 0 or 1 and the sum k + t is 1; R 12 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R 10 and R 11 independently of each other are an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an alkyl group) Preferably represents a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C 1 -C 4 ) amidoalkyl group, or R 10 and R 11 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl Or morpholinyl; Y − is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulphate or phosphate, in particular the polymer is in French patent 2 080 759 And its additional certificate 2 190 406. [315] R 10 and R 11 independently of one another, preferably represent an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms). [316] Among the polymers defined above, more specifically the Nalco company "Merquat Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name 100 "(and its homologue of low weight average molecular mass) and" Merquat Mention may be made of copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide available under the name 550 ". [317] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units corresponding to the formula: [318] [319] (In the meal, [320] R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 may be the same or different and represent an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arylaliphatic radical of 1 to 20 carbon atoms or a lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radical, or alternatively R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 , together or separately, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form a heterocycle optionally comprising a second hetero atom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 are Straight chain substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a -CO-OR 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D group, wherein R 17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group Branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals; [321] A 1 and B 1 may be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and include one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxides, sulfones, disulfides, amino, alkylamino, hydroxides contained or inserted in the main chain. A polymethylene group having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may include hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; [322] X − represents an anion derived from an inorganic acid or an organic acid; [323] A 1 , R 13 and R 15 together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached may form a piperazine ring; In addition, when A 1 is a straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B 1 is also (CH 2 ) n -CO-D-OC- (CH 2 ) n- ( wherein n is 1 to 100, preferably 1 to 50) group; [324] Where D represents: [325] a) a glycol moiety of the formula -O-Z-O-, wherein Z represents a straight or branched chain hydrocarbon based radical or a group corresponding to one of the formulas: [326] -(CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2- [327] -[CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O] y -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 )- [328] (Where x and y are integers of 1 to 4 representing a defined intrinsic polymerization degree or any number of 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization); [329] b) bis-secondary diamine residues such as piperazine derivatives; [330] c) bis- of formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y is a straight or branched chain hydrocarbon based radical or alternatively represents a divalent radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -SS-CH 2 -CH 2- Primary diamine residues; [331] d) ureylene groups of the formula -NH-CO-NH-. [332] Preferably, X − is an anion such as chloride or bromide). [333] The polymers generally have a number average molecular mass of 1,000 to 100,000. [334] Polymers of this type are in particular French patents 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907, and US patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462 , 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020 It is. [335] More specifically, it is possible to use polymers composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula: [336] [337] Wherein R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 may be the same or different and represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having approximately 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from approximately 2 to 20 X − is an anion derived from an inorganic acid or an organic acid). [338] One particularly preferred compound of formula 20 is a hexadimethrin chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature, wherein R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl It is known as. [339] (9) a poly quaternary ammonium polymer composed of the unit of formula 21: [340] [341] (In the meal: [342] R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or —CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) represents a p OH radical, where p is 0 or an integer from 1 to 6, provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, [343] r and s may be the same or different and are an integer ranging from 1 to 6, [344] q is 0 or an integer ranging from 1 to 34, [345] X − represents an anion such as halide, [346] A represents a divalent radical, or preferably -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2- . [347] Such compounds are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324. [348] Of these products, for example "Mirapol" sold by the company MiranolA 15 "," Mirapol AD1 "," MirapolAZ1 "and" Mirapol 175 ". [349] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example Luviquat from BASF Available under the names FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370. [350] (11) Polyamines, such as the Polyquart sold by Cognis, which is the reference "Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine" in the CTFA Dictionary. H product. [351] (12) homopolymerization of crosslinked methacryloyloxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyltri (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylammonium salt polymers, such as dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or methyl A polymer obtained by copolymerizing dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with chloride with acrylamide and crosslinking with the above homopolymerization or copolymerization followed by a compound comprising an olefinically unsaturated moiety, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. More specifically, acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride crosslinked copolymer (20/80 weight ratio) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of copolymer in mineral oil can be used. The dispersion is manufactured by Ciba, Inc., "Salcare Commercially available under the name SC 92. It is also possible to use cross-linked homopolymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, containing about 50% by weight homopolymers in mineral oils or liquid esters. 4 "Salcare SC 95 "and" Salcare Commercially available under the name SC 96 ". [352] Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention include cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polymers comprising polyethyleneimine, vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamines and epichlorohydrin Condensates, quaternary polyureylene and chitin derivatives. [353] Among all cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention, quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as those sold under the name "JR 400" by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclic polymers, in particular "Merquat" by the company Nalco 100 "," Merquat 550 "and" Merquat Preference is given to using dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers or copolymers, quaternary polymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, and mixtures thereof, sold under the name S ". [354] Cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are particularly chemically modified polypeptides having a quaternary ammonium group attached to or at the end of the chain. Their molecular mass can be, for example, approximately 1500 to 10000, in particular 2000 to 5000. Among these compounds, mention may be made in particular of: [355] Collagen hydrolysates with triethylammonium groups, such as the product sold under the trade name "Quat-Pro E" by the company Maybrook and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "triethium hydrolyzed collagen etosulphate"; [356] Collagen hydrolysates having trimethylammonium and trimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, such as those sold under the trade name "Quat-Pro S" by the company Maybrook and referred to as "steartrimonium hydrolyzed collagen" in the CTFA Dictionary; [357] Animal protein hydrolysates having trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as "Crotein from Croda" BTA "and is referred to in the CTFA Dictionary as" benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein "; [358] A protein hydrolyzate having a quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one alkyl radical of 1 to 18 carbon atoms on the polypeptide chain. [359] Among the protein hydrolysates, in particular, mention may be made of: [360] "Croquat, wherein the quaternary ammonium group contains a C 12 alkyl group L "; [361] "Croquat, wherein the quaternary ammonium group comprises a C 10 -C 18 alkyl group M "; [362] "Croquat, wherein the quaternary ammonium group comprises a C 18 alkyl group S "; [363] Croquat, wherein the quaternary ammonium group comprises at least one alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms Q ". [364] The various products are commercially available from Croda. [365] Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates correspond, for example, to Formula 22: [366] [367] [Wherein X − is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid, A represents a protein residue derived from a hydrolyzate of a protein, in particular collagen, R 5 represents a lipophilic group having up to 30 carbon atoms, and R 6 represents 1 to 6 carbon atoms Is an alkylene group.] [368] For example, "Lexein from Inolex Products marketed under the trade name QX 3000 "and referred to in the CTFA Dictionary as" cocotrimonium collagen hydrolyzate ". [369] Also mention may be made of quaternized plant proteins such as wheat, corn or soy protein; As a quaternized wheat protein, a product sold under the trade name "Hydrotriticum WQ or QM" by Croda, and referred to as "cocodymonium hydrolyzed wheat protein" in the CTFA Dictionary, under the trade name "Hydrotriticum QL", and in the CTFA Dictionary Reference may be made to the product referred to as "lauridimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein" or to the product sold under the trade name "Hydrotriticum QS" and referred to as "stearmonium hydrolyzed wheat protein" in the CTFA Dictionary. [370] The cationic surfactants are especially selected from quaternary ammonium salts, quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, diquaternary ammonium salts, and quaternary ammonium salts including one or more functional groups. [371] Cationic surfactants can be selected from: [372] A) the quaternary ammonium salt of formula [373] [374] Wherein X − is a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl sulfate, more specifically methyl sulfate, phosphate, alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonate, acetate or lactate An anion selected from the group of anions derived from the same organic acid, [375] i) The radicals R 1 to R 3 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched chain aliphatic radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms, in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens. Aliphatic radicals are selected from, for example, alkyl, alkoxy and alkylamide radicals, [376] R 4 represents a straight or branched chain alkyl radical of 16 to 30 carbon atoms. [377] The cationic surfactant is preferably behenyltrimethylammonium salt (eg chloride). [378] ii) The radicals R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched chain aliphatic radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals may especially comprise heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens. Aliphatic radicals are selected from, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamides, and hydroxyalkyl radicals of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; [379] R 3 and R 4 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched chain alkyl radical of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function. [380] R 3 and R 4 are especially selected from (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl and (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylacetate radicals. [381] Cationic surfactants are preferably stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium salts (eg chloride); [382] B)-quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, for example, [383] [384] (Wherein, R 5 is from 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkenyl or alkyl radical, for example, represents a fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms Represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical, R 7 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, X is a halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfide An anion selected from the group of pate, alkyl sulfonate or alkylaryl sulfonate R 5 and R 6 are preferably mixtures of alkenyl or alkyl radicals of 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow R 7 represents methyl and R 8 represents hydrogen, for example the product "Rewoquat" from the company Witco. Quarternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quarternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG); [385] C)-divalent quaternary ammonium salt of formula [386] [387] Wherein R 9 represents an aliphatic radical of about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 10 , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 may be the same or different, hydrogen and alkyl of 1 to 4 carbon atoms And X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates, wherein the divalent quaternary ammonium salts include, in particular, propanetalodiammonium dichloride); [388] D)-quaternary ammonium salt of formula 26, comprising at least one ester function: [389] [390] (In the meal, [391] R 15 is selected from a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical and a C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radical; [392] R 16 is selected from: [393] Radicals [394] Straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon based radical R 20 , [395] Hydrogen atoms, [396] R 18 is selected from: [397] Radicals [398] Straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon based radical R 22 , [399] Hydrogen atoms, [400] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different and are selected from straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon based radicals; [401] n, p and r may be the same or different and are integers ranging from 2 to 6; [402] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; [403] x and z may be the same or different and are an integer ranging from 0 to 10; [404] -X - is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion; However, the sum x + y + z is 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R 16 represents R 20 , and when z is 0, R 18 represents R 22 ). [405] In particular ammonium salts of formula 26 are used: [406] R 15 represents a methyl or ethyl radical, [407] x and y are 1; [408] z is 0 or 1; [409] n, p and r are 2; [410] R 16 is selected from: [411] Radicals [412] Radicals based on methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbons, [413] Hydrogen atoms; [414] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different and are selected from straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon based radicals; [415] R 18 is selected from: [416] Radicals [417] Hydrogen atoms. [418] Such compounds are commercially available, for example, under the names Dehyquart from Cognis, Stepanquat from Stepan, Noxamium from Ceca and Rewoquat WE 18 from Rewo-Witco. [419] Among the preferred quaternary ammonium salts are behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl 70" by Van Dyk and Quarternium-27 or Quarternium-83 by Witco. . [420] Cationic surfactants fall into the category of soluble conditioners, but depending on their chemical structure, some cationic surfactants may be water-insoluble. [421] According to the invention, the conditioner (s) may comprise from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more specifically from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. . [422] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains at least one cationic polymer and / or at least one silicone. [423] The composition of the present invention is also advantageously usually present in an amount of approximately 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably 3% to 40% by weight, more preferably 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It contains one or more surfactants present. [424] The surfactant may be selected from anionic, zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants, or mixtures thereof. [425] Surfactants suitable for carrying out the invention are in particular as follows: [426] (i) Anionic Surfactant (s) : [427] In the context of the present invention, their properties do not represent a decisive factor in practice. [428] Thus, as examples of anionic surfactants which can be used alone or in mixtures in the context of the present invention, in particular salts of the following compounds (especially alkali salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) Alkyl sulphate, alkyl ether sulphate, alkyl amido ether sulphate, alkyl aryl polyether sulphate, monoglyceride sulphate; Alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; Alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates; Alkyl sulfosuccinamate; Alkyl sulfoacetates; Alkyl ether phosphates; Acyl sarcosinate; Mention may be made of acyl isethionate and N-acyltaurate (but not limited to), and the alkyl or acyl radicals of all such various compounds are preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radicals are preferably phenyl or benzyl Group. Among the anionic surfactants that may also be used, are salts of fatty acids such as oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; Mention may be made of acyl lactylates having 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weak anionic surfactants such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acid and salts thereof, as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) Alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof Can be used. [429] Among the anionic surfactants, preference is given to using alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts and mixtures thereof according to the invention. [430] (ii) nonionic surfactant (s) : [431] Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known per se and are well known per se (see, in particular, "Handbook of Surfactants", published in MR Porter, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178), In the context of the present invention, their properties are not critical features. Thus, they can in particular be selected from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, alkylphenols, α-diols, or alcohols having fatty chains of for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms (enumerated without limitation). It is possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to be especially in the range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups to be particularly in the range to 2 to 30. Also copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; Polyethoxylated fatty amides having preferably 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5, in particular 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups; Polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; Oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; Fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10 -C 14 ) alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides May be mentioned. It will be noted that alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that are particularly suitable for the specification of the present invention. [432] (iii) Zwitterionic Surfactant (s) : [433] Zwitterionic surfactants whose properties are not critical to the specification of the present invention, in particular, have aliphatic radicals having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one water soluble anionic group (e.g. carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate). Or phosphonates), which may be straight or branched aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives (including but not limited to); And (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylbetaines or (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 1 C 6 ) alkylsulfobetaines. [434] Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of products marketed under the name Miranol, described in US Pat. Nos. 2 528 378 and 2 781 354 and having the following chemical structural formula: [435] R 2 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N + (R 3 ) (R 4 ) (CH 2 COO-) (2) [436] (Wherein: R 2 denotes an alkyl radical, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical derived from an acid R 2 -COOH present in coconut oil is hydrolyzed, R 3 represents a β- hydroxyethyl group, R 4 is Carboxymethyl group); [437] R 5 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (B) (C) (3) [438] (In the meal: [439] B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX ', C represents-(CH 2 ) z -Y' (z is 1 or 2), where X 'represents a -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH group or a hydrogen atom , Y 'represents a -COOH or -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H radical, and R 5 represents an alkyl radical, alkyl radical, especially of the acid R 5 -COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil C 7 , C 9 , C 11 or C 13 alkyl radicals, C 17 alkyl radicals and their iso form, unsaturated C 17 radicals). [440] The compound is prepared in the CTFA Dictionary (Fifth Edition, 1993), 2 sodium cocoampodiacetate, 2 sodium lauroampodiacetate, 2 sodium capryl ampodiacetate, 2 sodium caprylo ampodiacetate, 2 sodium coco ammonium. Podipropionate, disodium lauroampodipropionate, disodium capryl ampodipropionate, disodium caprylo ampodipropionate, lauroampodipropionate, coco ampodipropionic acid . [441] By way of example, mention may be made of coco ampodiacetate, sold under the trade name Miranol C2M concentrate by Rhodia Chimie. [442] (iv) cationic surfactant (s): [443] Cationic surfactants can be selected from: [444] A) the quaternary ammonium salt of formula [445] [Formula 23] [446] [447] Wherein X − is a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl sulfate, more specifically methyl sulfate, phosphate, alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonate, acetate or lactate An anion selected from the group of anions derived from the same organic acid, [448] i) The radicals R 1 to R 3 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched chain aliphatic radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms, in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens. Aliphatic radicals are selected from, for example, alkyl, alkoxy and alkylamide radicals, [449] R 4 represents a straight or branched chain alkyl radical of 16 to 30 carbon atoms. [450] The cationic surfactant is preferably behenyltrimethylammonium salt (eg chloride). [451] ii) The radicals R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched chain aliphatic radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals may especially comprise heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens. Aliphatic radicals are selected from, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamides, and hydroxyalkyl radicals of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; [452] R 3 and R 4 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched chain alkyl radical of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function. [453] R 3 and R 4 are especially selected from (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl and (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylacetate radicals. [454] Cationic surfactants are preferably stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium salts (eg chloride); [455] B)-quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, for example, [456] [Formula 24] [457] [458] (Wherein, R 5 is from 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkenyl or alkyl radical, for example, represents a fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms Represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical, R 7 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, X is a halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfide An anion selected from the group of pate, alkyl sulfonate or alkylaryl sulfonate R 5 and R 6 are preferably mixtures of alkenyl or alkyl radicals of 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow R 7 represents methyl and R 8 represents hydrogen, for example the product "Rewoquat" from the company Witco. Quarternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quarternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG); [459] C)-divalent quaternary ammonium salt of formula [460] [Formula 25] [461] [462] Wherein R 9 represents an aliphatic radical of about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 10 , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 may be the same or different, hydrogen and alkyl of 1 to 4 carbon atoms And X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates, wherein the divalent quaternary ammonium salts include, in particular, propanetalodiammonium dichloride); [463] D)-quaternary ammonium salt of formula 26, comprising at least one ester function: [464] [Formula 26] [465] [466] (In the meal, [467] R 15 is selected from a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical and a C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radical; [468] R 16 is selected from: [469] Radicals [470] Straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon based radical R 20 , [471] Hydrogen atoms, [472] R 18 is selected from: [473] Radicals [474] Straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon based radical R 22 , [475] Hydrogen atoms, [476] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different and are selected from straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon based radicals; [477] n, p and r may be the same or different and are integers ranging from 2 to 6; [478] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; [479] x and z may be the same or different and are an integer ranging from 0 to 10; [480] -X - is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion; However, the sum x + y + z is 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R 16 represents R 20 , and when z is 0, R 18 represents R 22 ). [481] In particular ammonium salts of formula 12 are used: [482] R 15 represents a methyl or ethyl radical, [483] x and y are 1; [484] z is 0 or 1; [485] n, p and r are 2; [486] R 16 is selected from: [487] Radicals [488] Radicals based on methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbons, [489] Hydrogen atoms; [490] R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different and are selected from straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon based radicals; [491] R 18 is selected from: [492] Radicals [493] Hydrogen atoms. [494] Such compounds are commercially available, for example, under the names Dehyquart from Cognis, Stepanquat from Stepan, Noxamium from Ceca and Rewoquat WE 18 from Rewo-Witco. [495] Among the preferred quaternary ammonium salts are behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl 70" by Van Dyk and Quarternium-27 or Quarternium-83 by Witco. . [496] Preferred anionic surfactants include sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium (C 12 -C 14 ) alkyl sulphate, sodium oxyethylated with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, triethanolamine or ammonium (C 12- C 14 ) alkyl ether sulfates, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium α- (C 14 -C 16 ) olefin sulfonates, and mixtures thereof: [497] Zwitterionic surfactants such as 2 sodium cocoampodipropionate or amine derivatives known as sodium cocoamphopropionate, in particular as aqueous solution containing 38% of active substance "Miranol C2M CONC "or Miranol Sold by the company Rhodia Chimie under the name C32, or; [498] -Aqueous solutions containing 32% of AM in alkylbetaines, in particular Cognis. Cocobetaine sold under the name AB 30 ", or (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylbetaine, in particular Tegobetaine sold by Goldschmidt Zwitterionic surfactant such as F 50. [499] The compositions of the present invention may also contain thickeners, anti-dandruff or anti-seborrheic agents, fragrances, pearlescent agents, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, preservatives, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, vitamins, provitamins such as panthenol, anionic or nonionic polymers. At least one additive selected from proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyleicosanoic acid, and mixtures of the various compounds described above, and any other additives commonly used in cosmetics that do not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention. It may contain. [500] The additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The exact amount of each additive is readily determined by one skilled in the art based on its nature and function. [501] The composition according to the invention can in particular be used for cleaning or treating keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips or scalp, more specifically hair. [502] In particular, the compositions according to the invention are detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and bubble baths. In this embodiment of the invention, the composition contains one or more cleaning bases which are generally aqueous. [503] The surfactant (s) forming the cleaning base may be selected from anionic, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants as defined above, alone or as a mixture, without distinction. [504] The amount and quality of the cleaning base are those sufficient to impart satisfactory foaming and / or cleaning power to the final composition. [505] Thus, according to the invention, the cleaning base will comprise 4% to 50% by weight, preferably 6% to 35% by weight and more preferably 8% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. Can be. [506] Another aspect of the invention is a method of treating a keratin material such as skin or hair, which is characterized by applying a cosmetic composition as defined above to the keratin material and then optionally rinsing it with water. [507] Thus, the method according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the hairstyle and to remove the treatment, care and cleaning or makeup of the skin, hair or any other keratin materials. [508] The composition of the present invention may also be in the form of a rinse-out conditioner, leaver, hair straightener, dyeing or bleaching composition, or alternatively before dyeing, bleaching, perming or straightening the hair. Or after, or alternatively, in the form of a rinsing composition applied between two stages of a permanent or hair straightening operation. [509] If the composition is in the form of a conditioner it may be a rinsing conditioner and advantageously contains a cationic surfactant, the concentration of which is generally from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition To 5% by weight. [510] The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a cleaning composition for the skin, in particular in the form of a bath or shower solution or a gel or make-up removal product. [511] The composition according to the invention may also be in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic lotion for skin care and / or hair care. [512] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thick lotion or mousse, and may be used for skin, nails, eyelashes, lips, more specifically hair. [513] The compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in nebulizers, pump-dispenser bottles or aerosol containers so that the compositions can be applied in spray form or in mousse form. The packaging form is used, for example, when it is desirable to obtain a spray, lacquer or mousse for hair treatment. [514] In the above and the following specification, the percentages indicated are by weight. [515] The invention will be more fully illustrated by the following examples which should not be construed as being limited to the embodiments described. [516] In the examples, AM means active substance. [517] Example [518] Example 1 [519] Shampoos were prepared having the following composition: [520] AM (g) Sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, containing 70% AM (70/30 C12 / C14)7 Cocoyl Betaine2.5 Ethylene Glycol Distearate1.5 Polydimethylsiloxane of formula (2) sold by Wacker under the name SLM 280201.5 Polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 60,000 cSt (DC200-60,000 cSt from Dow Corning)One Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, marketed under the name Ucare Polymer JR-400 by Amerchol.0.4 Emulsion-type acrylic polymer sold by Noveon under the name Aqua SF10.8 PreservativeQuantity pH formulationCorrection, pH 5.0 Demineralized waterQuantity, 100 total [521] Hair treated with the shampoo has a long lasting softness and smoothness. [522] The same result is obtained by replacing 1.5 g AM of polydimethylsiloxane of formula 2 with 1 g AM of polydimethylsiloxane of formula 1 sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652. [523] Example 2 [524] A rinse conditioner was prepared having the following composition: [525] Cetyl alcohol3.7 g Myristyl alcohol0.4 g Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR from Aqualon)0.25 g Myristyl / cetyl / stearyl myristate / palmitate / stearate (Laserson Blanc de Baleine Vegetal)0.8 g A mixture of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride as an aqueous solution containing 25% AM (Dehyquart from Cognis A OR)2.5 g (0.62 g AM) Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (Genamin KDM-F from Clariant) as a water / isopropanol solution containing 80% AM0.6 g (0.48 g AM) Polydimethylsiloxane of formula (2) sold by Wacker SLM 280205 g (0.85 g AM) Methosulfate of dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium / cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol (70/30 weight) (Dehyquart F 30 from Cognis)1 g Citric acidSuitable pH 3.5 ± 0.5 Air freshener, preservativeQuantity Deionized water100 g [526] Hair treated with the composition has long lasting softness and smoothness. [527] Example 3 [528] A rinse conditioner was prepared having the following composition: [529] Ethyltrimethylammonium methacrylate chloride homopolymer as crosslinked reversed phase emulsion (Salcare SC 96 from Ciba)0.5 Hydroxypropyl corn divalent starch phosphate3 Oxyethylenated (40 EO) Hydrogenated Castor Oil0.5 Polydimethylsiloxane of formula (2) sold by Wacker under the name SLM 280202 air freshenerQuantity PreservativeQuantity Demineralized waterCorrect amount (total 100 g) [530] Hair treated with the conditioner has long lasting softness and smoothness. [531] Example 4 [532] A rinse conditioner was prepared having the following composition: [533] AM (g) SMDI / polyethylene glycol polymer with decyl end groups (Aculyn 44 from Rohm & Haas)One Ethyltrimethylammonium methacrylate chloride homopolymer as crosslinked reversed phase emulsion (Salcare SC 96 from Ciba)0.2 Oxyethylenated (40 EO) Hydrogenated Castor Oil0.5 Polydimethylsiloxane of formula (2) sold by Wacker under the name SLM 280202 air freshenerQuantity PreservativeQuantity Demineralized waterCorrect amount (total 100 g) [534] Hair treated with the composition has long lasting softness and smoothness. [535] Example 5 [536] From 95 g of the composition of Example 3 and 5 g of Propel 45 (isobutane / propane / butane (56/24/20)), an accelerator from Repsol, a spare mousse was prepared which was provided in the aerosol form. [537] The hair treated with the mousse has long lasting softness and smoothness. [538] The composition may retain other advantageous cosmetic properties associated with the silicone containing composition while at the same time limiting or eliminating the lack of gloss, smoothness and softness of the hair.
权利要求:
Claims (73) [1" claim-type="Currently amended] A cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one aminosilicone and at least one conditioner selected from those of formulas 1 or 2: [Formula 1] (In the meal: m and n have a sum (n + m) in the range of 1 to 1000, n represents a number of 0 to 999, and m represents a number of 1 to 1000; R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be the same or different and represent a hydroxyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical and at least one of the radicals R 1 to R 3 represents an alkoxy radical); [Formula 2] (In the meal: p and q have a sum (p + q) in the range of 1 to 1000, p represents a number of 0 to 999, and q represents a number of 1 to 1000; R 1 and R 2 are different and represent a hydroxyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical and at least one of the radicals R 1 and R 2 represents an alkoxy radical). [2" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1 wherein the C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. [3" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio in the aminosilicon of Formula 1 is in the range of 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1. [4" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the silicone of formula 1 has a weight average molecular mass in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000. [5" claim-type="Currently amended] 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio in the aminosilicon of formula (2) is from 1: 0.8 to 1: 1.1. [6" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the silicone of formula (2) has a weight average molecular mass in the range of 2,000 to 200,000. [7" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the aminosilicone is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. [8" claim-type="Currently amended] 8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion contains at least one cationic, nonionic, or cationic and nonionic surfactant. [9" claim-type="Currently amended] 8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the number average size of the silicon particles in the emulsion ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. [10" claim-type="Currently amended] 10. The composition of claim 9, wherein the average size of the silicon particles in the emulsion ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm. [11" claim-type="Currently amended] The contact angle of hair and water according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the aminosilicone (s) of formula (1) or (2) is treated with a composition containing 2% AM (active material) of the silicone and having a contact angle of 90 to 180 ° (boundary). Including) a composition, characterized in that [12" claim-type="Currently amended] 12. The method according to claim 11, wherein the aminosilicone (s) of formula (1) or (2) is such that the contact angle of water and hair treated with the composition containing 2% AM (active material) of the silicone is from 90 to 130 ° (including boundaries). Selected composition. [13" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition containing at least one aminosilicone (s) of formula (1) or (2) is selected such that the contact angle of the hair treated with the composition with water is from 90 to 180 degrees (including boundaries). A composition, characterized in that. [14" claim-type="Currently amended] 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the aminosilicone (s) of formula 1 or 2 are present at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [15" claim-type="Currently amended] 15. The composition of claim 14, wherein the aminosilicone (s) of formula 1 or 2 are present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [16" claim-type="Currently amended] 16. The conditioner of claim 15, wherein the conditioner is a synthetic oil, mineral oil, vegetable oil, fluoro oil or perfluoro oil, natural or synthetic wax, compound of ceramide type, carboxylic acid ester, silicone other than formula 1 or 2, anion And a cationic polymer, a cationic polymer, a cationic protein, a cationic protein hydrolyzate and a cationic surfactant, and a mixture of the various compounds. [17" claim-type="Currently amended] 17. The composition of claim 16, wherein the synthetic oil (s) is a polyolefin of hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene type or hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydeken type. [18" claim-type="Currently amended] 17. The vegetable oil or oil of claim 16, wherein the vegetable oil (s) is sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, fish oil, glyceryl tricaprocaprylate, or Vegetable composition of R 9 COOR 10 (wherein R 9 represents a higher fatty acid residue having 7 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 10 represents a straight or branched hydrocarbon-based chain having 3 to 30 carbon atoms such as alkyl or alkenyl). Or animal oils, natural or synthetic essential oils, such as eucalyptus oil, hybrid lavender oil, lavender oil, vetiver oil, litsi cuveva oil, lemon oil, sandalwood oil, rosemary oil, chamomile oil, savory Oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, hyssop oil, caraway oil, orange oil, geraniol oil, cade oil and bergamot oil. Composition characterized in that. [19" claim-type="Currently amended] The wax of claim 16, wherein the wax (es) are carnauba wax, candelilla wax, alfalfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or anhydrous of flowers. Wax, such as essential waxes of black currant flowers, animal waxes such as beeswax, marine waxes, polyethylene waxes and polyolefins. [20" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 16, wherein the compound of ceramide type is selected from: 2-N-linoleylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol such as N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, Bis (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) cetylamide, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, Or mixtures of these compounds. [21" claim-type="Currently amended] 18. The process of claim 16, wherein the carboxylic acid esters are ethyl and isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myri States, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; A composition characterized in that it is selected from dioctyl maleate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate and cetyl octanoate. [22" claim-type="Currently amended] 18. The process of claim 16 wherein the silicone other than Formula 1 or 2 is selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone rubbers and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof. A nonvolatile polyorganosiloxane composition. [23" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 22 wherein the composition is: (a) polyalkylsiloxanes are selected from: Polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups; Polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups; Poly (C 1 -C 20 ) alkylsiloxanes; (b) the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are selected from: Linear, branched, or linear and branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity of 1 × 10 −5 to 5 × 10 −2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C .; (c) silicone rubber is selected from polydiorganosiloxanes having a number average molecular mass of 200,000 to 1,000,000, used alone or in the form of a mixture in a solvent; (d) the resin is selected from resins consisting of the following units: R 3 SiO 1/2 , R 2 SiO 2/2 , RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 , wherein R is a hydrocarbon-based group or a phenyl group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms; (e) Organomodified silicones are selected from silicones containing, in their structure, at least one organic functional group attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical. [24" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition according to claim 23, wherein the silicone rubber used alone or in the form of a mixture is selected from the following structures: Polydimethylsiloxanes, Polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane, and The following mixture: Mixtures formed from polydimethylsiloxanes and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes whose chain ends are hydroxylated; Mixtures formed from polydimethylsiloxane rubber and cyclic silicones; And Polydimethylsiloxane mixtures of different viscosities. [25" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 23, wherein the organomodified silicone is selected from polyorganosiloxanes comprising: a) polyethyleneoxy group, polypropyleneoxy group, or polyethyleneoxy group and polypropyleneoxy group; b) a substituted or unsubstituted amine group; c) thiol groups; d) alkoxylated groups; e) hydroxyalkyl group; f) acyloxyalkyl group; g) alkylcarboxyl groups; h) 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate group; i) 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfonate group; j) hydroxyacylamino group. [26" claim-type="Currently amended] 26. The process according to any one of claims 23 to 25, wherein the silicones are polyalkylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups, polyalkylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, rubbers and oils of different viscosities. A composition of two composed PDMS, a mixture of organosiloxane and cyclic silicone, and a polyorganosiloxane resin. [27" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 16, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from: Polymers containing carboxylic acid units derived from unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers of the formula [Formula 3] [Wherein n is an integer of 0 to 10, A 1 represents a methylene group which may be linked to a carbon atom of an unsaturated group or to an adjacent methylene group through a hetero atom such as oxygen or a sulfur atom when n is greater than 1, R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a —CH 2 —COOH, phenyl or benzyl group; Polymers containing units derived from sulfonic acids such as vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid and acrylamidoalkylsulfonic acid units. [28" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 27 wherein the anionic polymer is selected from: Acrylic acid copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide trimer; Copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid trimer and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate trimer; Polymers derived from maleic acid, fumaric acid or itaconic acid or an anhydride with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and esters thereof such as methyl vinyl ether / monoesterized maleic anhydride copolymers; Copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate; Copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate; Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers; Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / polyethylene glycol terpolymer. [29" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 16, wherein the amphoteric polymer is selected from polymers containing units derived from: a) at least one monomer selected from acrylamide and methacrylamide substituted on nitrogen with an alkyl radical, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing at least one reactive carboxyl group, and c) quaternization products of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate and esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of one or more basic comonomers such as acrylic acid and methacrylic acid . [30" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 16, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from: Polyalkyloxazolines; Vinyl acetate homopolymers; Copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic esters; Copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene; Copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic esters; Copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride; Alkyl acrylate homopolymers and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers; Acrylic ester copolymers, such as copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates; Copolymers of acrylonitrile and nonionic monomers selected from, for example, butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; And Copolymers of alkyl acrylates and urethanes. [31" claim-type="Currently amended] 18. The method of claim 16, wherein the cationic polymer forms part of the polymer backbone or is included in the side chain substituents directly attached to the chain, primary, secondary, tertiary, quaternary, primary / secondary, primary / 3 car, 1 car / 4 car, 2 car / 3 car, 2 car / 4 car, 3 car / 4 car, 1 car / 2 car / 3 car, 1 car / 2 car / 4 car, 1 car / 3 car A composition characterized in that it comprises a unit comprising a quaternary, secondary / tertiary / quaternary, or primary / secondary / tertiary / quaternary amine groups. [32" claim-type="Currently amended] 32. The composition of claim 31, wherein the cationic polymer is selected from quaternary polymers of cationic cyclic polymers, cationic polysaccharides, vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole and mixtures thereof. [33" claim-type="Currently amended] 33. The composition of claim 32, wherein the cyclic polymer is selected from diallyldimethylammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide. [34" claim-type="Currently amended] 33. The composition of claim 32, wherein the cationic polysaccharide is selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. [35" claim-type="Currently amended] 33. The composition of claim 32, wherein said cationic polysaccharide is selected from guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt. [36" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 16 wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from: A) the quaternary ammonium salt of formula [Formula 23] Wherein X − is a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl sulfate such as an organic acid such as methyl sulfate, phosphate, alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonate, acetate or lactate An anion selected from the group of anions derived from i) The radicals R 1 to R 3 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched chain aliphatic radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, wherein the aliphatic radicals are heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen , Sulfur or halogen, for example selected from alkyl, alkoxy and alkylamide radicals, R 4 represents a straight or branched chain alkyl radical having 16 to 30 carbon atoms. ii) the radicals R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched chain aliphatic radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl; Aliphatic radicals include heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogen, and are selected from, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamides, and hydroxyalkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R 3 and R 4 may be the same or different and represent a straight or branched chain alkyl radical having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function. R 3 and R 4 are selected from (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl and (C 12 -C 22 ) alkylacetate radicals; Cationic surfactants are stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium salts (eg chlorides); B)-quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as those of the formula (24) [Formula 24] (Wherein, R 5 is an alkyl radical having 8 to alkenyl, or, for example, represents a fatty acid derivatives of tallow of 30, R 6 is a hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl having a carbon number of 8 to 30 Represents a radical, R 7 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, X represents a halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl sulfo An anion selected from the group of nates or alkylaryl sulfonates R 5 and R 6 represent a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals having 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 represents methyl, R 8 represents hydrogen, for example the product "Rewoquat" from the company Witco. "Quarternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quarternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG); C)-divalent quaternary ammonium salt of formula [Formula 25] (Wherein R 9 represents an aliphatic radical having about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, and R 10 , R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 may be the same or different and may be selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms). And X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates, wherein the divalent quaternary ammonium salts include propanetalodiammonium dichloride); D)-quaternary ammonium salt of formula 26, comprising at least one ester function: [Formula 26] (In the meal, R 15 is selected from a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical and a C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radical; R 16 is selected from: Radicals Straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon based radical R 20 , Hydrogen atoms, R 18 is selected from: Radicals Straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon based radical R 22 , Hydrogen atoms, R 17 , R 19 and R 21 may be the same or different and are selected from straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon based radicals; n, p and r may be the same or different and are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z may be the same or different and are an integer ranging from 0 to 10; -X - is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion; However, the sum x + y + z is 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R 16 represents R 20 , and when z is 0, R 18 represents R 22 ). [37" claim-type="Currently amended] 37. The conditioner of any of claims 1, 2, 16-25, 27-36, wherein the conditioner is present in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition, characterized in that. [38" claim-type="Currently amended] 37. The method of any one of claims 1, 2, 16-25, 27-36, wherein at least one cationic polymer, at least one silicone, or at least one cationic polymer and at least one silicone A composition comprising a. [39" claim-type="Currently amended] 37. The method according to any one of claims 1, 2, 16-25, 27-36, selected from anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof. A composition, characterized in that it also contains one or more surfactants. [40" claim-type="Currently amended] 40. The composition of claim 39, wherein the surfactant (s) is present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [41" claim-type="Currently amended] 37. The composition of any one of claims 1, 2, 16-25, 27-36, wherein the composition is a thickener, antidandruff or antiseborrheic agent, fragrance, pearlescent agent, hydroxy acid. One or more additives selected from electrolytes, preservatives, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, vitamins, provitamins, anionic or nonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyleicosanoic acid and panthenol and mixtures of the various compounds A composition comprising a. [42" claim-type="Currently amended] 37. The hair shampoo, conditioner, permanent-waving, straightening, dyeing according to any one of claims 1, 2, 16-25, and 27-36. A composition for rinsing or bleaching, a rinsing composition applied between two steps of perm or hair straightening, or a body cleaning composition. [43" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition for cleaning or care of keratin materials according to any one of claims 1, 2, 16 to 25 and 27 to 36. [44" claim-type="Currently amended] A method of using aminosilicon as defined in claim 1 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition containing a conditioner. [45" claim-type="Currently amended] 37. A composition for conditioning keratin materials according to any one of claims 1, 2, 16-25, 27-36. [46" claim-type="Currently amended] 37. The method of any one of claims 1, 2, 16-25, 27-36, wherein the keratin material is of brightness, softness, gloss, tangling, brightness / softness, brightness / gloss, Brightness / Do Not Tangle, Smooth / Gloss, Smooth / Do Not Tangle, Gloss / Do Not Tangle, Brightness / Smooth / Gloss, Brightness / Smooth / Do Not Tangle, Brightness / Gloss / Do Not Tangle, Smooth / Gloss / Do Not Tangle, or Brightness / Smooth Compositions to improve gloss / tangling and to facilitate styling. [47" claim-type="Currently amended] 37. A composition according to any one of claims 1, 2, 16-25, 27-36 for improving the maintenance of conditioning effects on shampoos. [48" claim-type="Currently amended] Use of at least one aminosilicone according to claim 1 in the cosmetic composition to improve the maintenance of the conditioning effect of the cosmetic composition on the shampoo. [49" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1, wherein m and n have a sum of (n + m) of 50 to 250. [50" claim-type="Currently amended] 50. The composition of claim 49, wherein m and n have a sum of (n + m) of 100 to 200. [51" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1, wherein n is 49 to 249. [52" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 51 wherein n is from 125 to 175. [53" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1, wherein m is 1-10. [54" claim-type="Currently amended] 55. The composition of claim 53, wherein m is 1-5. [55" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1, wherein p and q have a sum of (p + q) of 50 to 350. [56" claim-type="Currently amended] 56. The composition of claim 55, wherein p and q have a sum of (p + q) of 150 to 250. [57" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1 wherein p is 49 to 349. [58" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 57 wherein p is 159 to 239. [59" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 1 wherein q is 1-10. [60" claim-type="Currently amended] 60. The composition of claim 59, wherein q is 1-5. [61" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 3 wherein the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1. [62" claim-type="Currently amended] 62. The composition of claim 61, wherein the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is 0.3: 1. [63" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 4 wherein the weight average molecular mass of the silicone of Formula 1 is 3,500 to 200,000. [64" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 5 wherein the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is from 1: 0.9 to 1: 1. [65" claim-type="Currently amended] 65. The composition of claim 64, wherein the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is 1: 0.95. [66" claim-type="Currently amended] 7. A composition according to claim 6 wherein the weight average molecular mass of the silicone of formula 2 is between 5,000 and 100,000. [67" claim-type="Currently amended] 67. The composition of claim 66, wherein the weight average molecular mass of the silicone of formula (2) is 10,000 to 50,000. [68" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 10 wherein the average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is in the range of 10 to 50 nm. [69" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition according to claim 13, wherein the contact angle between the hair treated with the composition and the water is 90 to 130 degrees (including a boundary). [70" claim-type="Currently amended] The composition of claim 15 wherein the aminosilicone (s) of Formula 1 or 2 are present at a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [71" claim-type="Currently amended] 38. The composition of claim 37, wherein the conditioner is present at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [72" claim-type="Currently amended] 41. The composition of claim 40, wherein the surfactant (s) is present at a concentration ranging from 3% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [73" claim-type="Currently amended] 73. The composition of claim 72, wherein the surfactant (s) is present at a concentration ranging from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
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同族专利:
公开号 | 公开日 CN1212827C|2005-08-03| BRPI0204983B8|2016-10-04| RU2238079C2|2004-10-20| US7485289B2|2009-02-03| BR0204983A|2003-09-16| AT477022T|2010-08-15| US7223385B2|2007-05-29| PL357038A1|2003-05-19| AR037273A1|2004-11-03| MXPA02010951A|2003-10-06| US20070154441A1|2007-07-05| PT1312335E|2010-10-26| CN1437924A|2003-08-27| PL211335B1|2012-05-31| JP2003146834A|2003-05-21| KR100549035B1|2006-02-02| CA2411474A1|2003-05-08| AU2002301803B2|2004-09-09| EP1312335A2|2003-05-21| JP3926728B2|2007-06-06| US20030157049A1|2003-08-21| DE60237270D1|2010-09-23| MX252013B|2007-11-30| BRPI0204983B1|2016-03-08| EP1312335B1|2010-08-11| EP1312335A3|2004-03-17|
引用文献:
公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
法律状态:
2001-11-08|Priority to FR0114476A 2001-11-08|Priority to FR0114477 2001-11-08|Priority to FR0114476 2001-11-08|Priority to FR0114477A 2002-11-08|Application filed by 로레알 2003-05-16|Publication of KR20030038526A 2006-02-02|Application granted 2006-02-02|Publication of KR100549035B1 2011-05-10|First worldwide family litigation filed
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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题 FR0114476A|FR2831798B1|2001-11-08|2001-11-08|Cosmetic compositions containing an amino silicone and an insoluble conditioning agent and uses thereof| FR0114477|2001-11-08| FR0114476|2001-11-08| FR0114477A|FR2831799B1|2001-11-08|2001-11-08|Cosmetic compositions containing an amino silicone and a soluble conditioning agent and uses thereof| 相关专利
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